Darkroom Journal

Notes from the darkroom as I explore various historical processes, such as salt prints, cyanotypes, platinum palladium prints, and silver gelatin. Newest posts first.

4. Salt prints - comparison with other processes

March 10, 2026

in progress

Driftwood #1
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

Driftwood #1
silver gelatin print
Ilford MGRC Glossy


3. Salt prints - potassium dichromate

Feb. 5, 2026

Background

Potassium dichromate is a nasty, dangerous chemical. It’s highly toxic, corrosive, and a known human carcinogen.

It also produces better contrast in salt prints, and is commonly mentioned in processing methods. Worth it?

I had to see for myself. It must be handled with care, and the water baths after processing should be neutralized with other chemicals to reduce its toxicity to the environment. I’m no chemist, so I generally try to stay away from chemicals in the darkroom that have added levels of risk, but I figured I should understand the potential benefits and effects that the chemical could have on prints should I need to utilize the effect in the future.

Process

These prints were printed 2 days after coating, which is not ideal at all. Some unexpected things came up that prevented me from processing the prints on the same day. It presumably resulted in some bad staining and probably reduced the contrast overall as well.

For these prints, I followed a more archival workflow combining elements from the process described by Christopher James in The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes and the heavily researched Salt Printing Manual by Ellie Young, who wrote a thesis on the process at RMIT University.

It goes something like:

1. Salt and Citric Acid bath - 5 min - (1L water, 30g kosher salt, 10g citric acid)
2. Water wash - 10-15 min - (water replacement 2-3 times)
3. Fixer bath #1 - 5 min - (1L water - 100g sodium thiosulfate)
4. Fixer bath #2 - 5 min - (1L water - 100g sodium thiosulfate)
5. Hypo clear - 5-10 min - (1L water, 10g sodium sulfite)
6. Water wash - 30-60 min - (water replacement several times)

While the previous process took around 60-70 min, this more archival workflow can take up to 120 min to fully process a print. Of course, you can have multiple prints running through the trays simultaneously or subsequently, but it’s a time-intensive process, especially compared to silver gelatin or simpler alternative methods like cyanotype, which can be processed in under 10 min.

Conclusions

So, what were my conclusions after this very brief foray into working with potassium dichromate? It definitely has a noticeable effect on the tonal qualities of the print, and significantly increased the contrast and tonal depth in the test prints. You can see the results for yourself below.

Is it worth it? For most prints, no, I didn’t enjoy the added stress of working with a highly toxic chemical and the added time and effort it took to neutralize the toxic baths and clean the trays.

Contrast probably isn’t worth the environmental risk that come with disposing of the processing solutions, even though they are, in reality, miniscule compared to any industrial process.

However, if I was producing prints for an exhibition or working with very flat images, the noticeable difference in image characteristics could be valuable enough to warrant the extra caution and processing effort. I need to continue experimenting with it before giving a final verdict.

Lamahatta Pine #1
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

2 coats of salt sensitizer with 1 drop of potassium dichromate added to one layer of coating

The overall contrast and tonal depth in this print are much higher than in the other two prints. This is most evident in the separation between the light and trees in the upper left of the image, and the detail in the foreground. The added coat of salt sensitizer probably contributed to this effect as well as the drop of potassium dichromate.

Lamahatta Pine #2
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

1 coat of salt sensitizer with 1 drop of potassium dichromate

This print doesn’t exhibit the same contrast or depth as #1, which suggests that the extra coat of salt sensitizer has as much to do with the difference in outcome as the potassium dichromate. It has deeper shadows than #3, but more muted highlights.

Lamahatta Pine #3
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate added

These aren’t great scans, so the differences aren’t as noticeable as they are in person. In reality, this print has a really smooth, muted tonal scale, with more intense highlights and less contrast in the background than the prints with potassium dichromate, which have deeper shadows and detail in the background.

Humayun’s Tomb #5
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate

The two prints have a similar range of tonal values and contrast, but the one without potassium dichromate is less dense overall. Warmer tone.

Humayun’s Tomb #6
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

1 coat of salt sensitizer with 1 drop of potassium dichromate

Deeper shadows and more details in the highlights. Cooler tone. Difference attributable to paper stock as well as potassium dichromate.

Desert Bedouin #1
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate

These two prints show a stark difference in tonal value and contrast. The one without potassium dichromate has less detail in the shadows and less separation in tonal values. The sky is a nice, smooth gradient, and it has a warmer tone.

Desert Bedouin #2
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

1 coat of salt sensitizer with 1 drop of potassium dichromate

This print has a higher degree of contrast, which is most evident in the rocks in the lower left corner and the separation in values in the mountain range. Cooler tone. I prefer the print without potassium dichromate in this pair, as the warmer tone and darker sky are more important than the detail in the foreground.

Kum Kum #1
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate
more prints from this session

Kum Kum #2
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate
more prints from this session

Rocky and Manny
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

no potassium dichromate
more prints from this session


2. Salt prints - paper comparison

Jan 23, 2026

Different paper stocks result in subtle but notable variations in the qualities of the print. So far, I’ve experimented with three paper stocks for salt prints:

  1. Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

  2. Bergger Cot 320

  3. Bergger Cot 160

Out of the three, my personal preference is Bergger Cot 320. It has produced the most consistent results in my experimentation, with more pleasing levels of detail, contrast, and tonal range than the other two papers.

Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag (HPR from now on) has been lower contrast and more susceptible to staining, despite the fact that others often report it being the superior paper for alt processes. YMMV.

Bergger Cot 160 is good for test prints as it soaks up less chemistry, but it doesn’t dry as flat or contain as much tonal depth as BC320, being the heaviest of the three stocks.

All 6 prints in this section were processed according to an abridged workflow described by Christopher James in The Book of Alternative Photographic Processes. Since then, I’ve added several steps and changed timings according to other research to work in a more archival flow.

Here’s the process for this set of test salt prints:
1. Salt and Citric Acid bath - 5 min - (1L water, 30g kosher salt, 10g citric acid)
2. Water wash - 10 min - (water replacement 2-3 times)
3. Fixer bath - 1 min - (1L water - 100g sodium thiosulfate)
4. Water wash - 20 min - (water replacement several times)

Humayun’s Tomb #1
salt print
Bergger Cot 320

This 4”x4” image was printed the same day as coating the paper, exposed for 3 minutes under a 100W UV lamp placed 9” away. These first salt prints followed an expedited developing method as I wanted to get a hang of the process rather than create truly archival prints. The initial water and salt baths were shortened, as well as the final washing time. They also didn’t undergo any hypo clear bath, which is important for clearing all of the residual silver from the print and preventing future fading.

Humayun’s Tomb #2
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

This print on HP300 has less contrast and tonal separation than the BC320 print, and exhibits some staining on the left side. Salt process is susceptible to staining if you aren’t rigorous about cleaning the coating rods, brushes, and trays, but this could also be due to the fact that I exposed this print a day after coating the paper. On the other hand, none of the other day 2 exposures exhibited this staining, while they all had a lower degree of contrast and a darker tonal range overall

Taj Mahal #1
salt print
Hahnemuhle Platinum Rag 300

In person, the difference in contrast between this BC160 print and the HPR 300 print is more evident. Both were exposed on the day after coating, which has produced a flatter tonal range in my experiments, but the HPR300 shows this to a higher degree.

Taj Mahal #2
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

The BC160 paper shows similar qualities to the BC320 stock, while requiring less coating chemistry. But it doesn’t lay flat when dried and bleeds through the back of the paper, while the BC320 might even be able to be coated and printed on both sides.

Humayun’s Tomb #3
salt print
Bergger Cot 320

In the scanned images, the print on BC320 has a slightly more reddish tone than the BC160, but I’d put this mostly down to the scanner inaccuracy. I’m just using an old Canoscan 9000f as a way to quickly digitize them rather than reproduce them faithfully.

Humayun’s Tomb #4
salt print
Bergger Cot 160

In person, the BC320 print looks better, with slightly better tonal separation, deeper blacks, and lighter highlights.


  1. Cyanotypes

    Jan 23, 2026

A few early cyanotypes, printed from both direct 4x5 negatives and scanned film negatives printed on transparency sheets. It’s easier to control contrast and exposure time with the images printed on transparency film compared to the negatives straight from the camera. You can adjust the density and contrast exactly like you want it to look in the finished print, whereas the physical negatives need to be shot with contact printing in mind from the get go.

Cyanotypes are an easy process to get started with in alternative photography processes. The materials are easy to obtain, the chemicals are relatively safe, and processing times are quick. Cyanotypes were my first intro into alternative processes, having only had experience with silver gelatin printing in the past.

Ignaz Masjid
cyanotype
Bergger Cot 320

8x10”, 18 drops A, 18 drops B, brush coating, 100W UV bulb 9in. away, 3’ exposure

Cheung Chau Sunrise
cyanotype
Bergger Cot 160

8x10”, 13 drops A, 13 drops B, rod coating, 100W UV bulb 9in. away, 1’ exposure

Rocky & Manny
cyanotype
Bergger Cot 160

8x10”, 15 drops A, 15 drops B, rod coating, 100W UV bulb 9in. away, 3’30” exposure

Manny
cyanotype
Bergger Cot 160

8x10”, 15 drops A, 15 drops B, brush coating, 100W UV bulb 9in. away, 3’ exposure